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M. V COLEMAN.

METHOD OF CUTTING AND FITTING GARMENTS. No. 357,762. Patented Feb. 15,1887.

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UNITED STATES PATENT. OFFICE.

inAnY v. COLEMAN, or ATLANTA, GEORGIA.

METHOD OF CUTTING AND FITTING GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 357,762, dated February 15, 1887.

Application filed March 9, 1886. Serial No. 194,671.

To aZZ whom it may concern.-

Dresses and other Garments; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as I will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings,-

and to letters or figures of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

My invention relates to a system of taking measurements for cutting out and fitting garments which is predicated upon the known proportions existing between the different parts of the human body, as will be hereinafter fully described.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a diagram by which, one measurement being known, the others are determined and shown. Fig. 2 shows a pattern for a back of a basque drawn by measurements shown in Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a pattern for the front of a basque drawn from measurements shown in Fig. 1. Fig. 4 is a pattern for asleeve, also drawn from meas urements shown in Fig. 1.

The rules of proportion applied to the human body demonstrate that one part of the body is in proportion to another throughout the entire structure. I have therefore devised a system by which I obtain from one measurement all the dimensions of the body that are necessary for cutting and fitting dresses. Those forms that appear to be different to these in their proportions are systematically so, and I have devised rules by which that difference can be ascertained and systematically provided for.

To reduce this method to practice I have devised the diagram Fig. 1, which is constructed in each case as follows:

From thepoint A is drawn a horizontal line, A J, perpendicular to which is drawn a line, A H. From the point of intersection A of the lines A J and AH is struck an arc, B O, the radius of which is the measurement around the (No model.)

wrist between the wrist-joint and hand. IVith the length of the are 13 G as a radius, strike the are D E. Increase the radius of the arcD E by adding one-half of the radius of the are E O and strike the arc F G. Draw a straight line, A K, from the point A that will bisect the angle and the arcs B O, D E, and F G at their centers. From the line A K, measure on the are D E a distance equal to one-halfthe arc B O and strike the line M I parallel to the line A H.

In describing the manner of applying this system I will describe the method of laying outaplain basqueforalady, having what I will call for convenience a normal form and afterward describe the method of ascertaining the proportions of those forms that are not normal. The length of the measurement around the wrist between the wrist-joint and hand being thefundamental measure,ldivideit into six equal parts, each of which, for convenience, I will designate one part. In stating the measurements for the following parts of the-body, and afterward in explaining the manner of applying this system in marking out patterns for a front and back of a plain sack and a sleeve, as illustrations, I refer to the length of the lines in Fig. l, which should be drawn in each case as above described. The smallest waist'size is B O increased by two parts, the next waistsize is B (3 increased by three parts, the next waistsize .is B 0 increased by four parts, and so on to the largest. I N is one-fourth of bustmeasure. I N is one-fourth of hip-measure at the joint of pelvis-bone. M L is one-fourth of waist. M L is the length of shoulder. D E is the length of back. One-half of D E is the length under arm. One-half of D E plusB G is the length of inside of arm from the muscle to the wrist-joint.

D E plus twice the length of B 0 plus three parts is the length of skirt.

. guide in cutting the waist, sleeves, and skirt of a dress or similar garment. There is, however, a peculiarity of form in the shoulders of some people that it is necessary to take into account and provide fornan1ely, a sloping or drooping form from the neck to the arm.

To determine whether a form is square or.

shoulders may be classed as drooping.

There are three positions which bodies occupynamely, very erect, moderately erect, and stooping. ForconvenienceIgroup theseforms of back as follows: The erect form I will call the first position, the moderately erect I will call the second position, and the form having the greatest amount of stoop I will call the third position. The first position I call normal. The second and third are abnormal.

In the diagrams, Figs. 2, 3, and 4, I assume that the form belongs to the first position.

Fig. 2, being a diagram of the back of a plain basque, is made as follows: Draw a perpendicular line, a z, and measure from a on this line the length of the are D E, from which point measure at right angle one-third or two parts of the radius of the arc B O, which locates the corner b of the rectangle a b c d, the width of which is equal to M L. From 0 to e and from f to g is two parts of wrist-measure, and from c tof and e to g is one-half of D E. g h is one-half of eg. a t is one-fourth of wrist-measure, or one and one-half part. Draw the line t'j parallel to a b. From h measure the length of the are M L, which is the shoulder-measure, letting it stop on the line 2? j at the point of intersection in, from which point of intersection draw the line Z parallel to the line a (Z and intersecting the line a 1). Draw the line m a parallel to and at a distance from I) c 6 equal to the distance between the lines a d and Z k. m n is the waistline. Extend lines a b, d c, and g c to meet line The two parts of the wrist-measure c e fg, which were added for the bust, must be taken up in darts 011 the waist-line, as follows: Divide said waist-line into three equal parts, taking out one-third in center of back and remaining two atside body. The darts are represented by the letter 0. Continue the line fg to p, which is one part added, and strike the line 1) a. This additional triangular piece,

being taken from the front and added to the back, makes the waist more symmetrical. The point It will come to the top of the shoulderjoint. The curved mark for the armhole 8 may be made to intersect the line his as far from the point h as fashion requires the seam to be from the shoulder-joint.

Fig. 3, being a diagram of the front of a plain basque, is made as follows: Draw a perpendicular line, a z, and measure from a on this line the length of the are D E, from which point measure at a right angle one-third the radius of the are B O, which locates the corner Z) of the rectangle a b c d, which is the same size as in Fig.2. Draw the line gf intersecting at a right angle to and in the center of the line 0 d.

wrist-measure. Draw line 6 h parallel to line 0 d. p q is the one part taken off that,

was added to the back. From f to It is onehalf of e tof plus two parts or one-third of wrist-measure. Draw a line, ij, intersecting the line a d at a point one-fourth plus onesixth of the wrist-measurc from a and parallel to theline a 1). Draw aline from the point h at such an angle, it being the length of the arc M L, Fig. 1, that it will exactly reach the line tj. Draw triangular addition a b 70. The distance from b to k, which is added for bust and stomach, is one -siXth the radius of the are B O. From a to Z is one-half the radius of the arc B O. Measure one-half the distance from Z to k, which is marked or in. Fig. 3. From 00 to m is onethird the radius of are B G, from which point draw the line for height of darts parallel to the waist-line. Onehalf the wrist-measure is taken up in darts, which are represented by the letter 0. If by observation it is decided that the line of the waist goes up in front, the darts o 0 must be taken up on the line 70 b c 0; but if it droops or goes down, measure one part or one-sixth of the radius of the arc B G from k to s and draw a line from that point to the point e, which becomes the waist-line and point of greatest width of darts.

Fig. 4, being a diagram of a sleeve, is made as follows: Draw a perpendicular line, B Z, and measure from B on this line the length of the are D E plus two parts, from which point measure at aright angle one-third the radius of the are B O, which is the corner 0 of the rectangle A B O D. The width of the rectangle is one-half the are B O. From D to E is one-third the radius of are B C. From G to E is one-half of are D E. The line G E is drawn parallel to the line A D. The line G L is drawn parallel to the line E O. K to H is the length of the arc B O, and from A to H is one-half the radius of arc B G. From H to I is the radius of are BO plus two parts. The line H l is drawn at a right a11- gleto the line K H. From E to F is one part of the radius of are B O. The triangular part L G J is added on the same principle and to the same width as the addition to waist. From M to N is the diameter of armhole in the back of waist. The under side ofthe sleeve is reduced in size by folding the pattern on the lines D K and K H, and by cutting as much inside this line as is found to be outside. By a little exercise of judgment the dotted lines are drawn in to make these patterns symmetrical and conform to the prevailing fashions.

If the pattern is being cut to fit a person with From 0 to e is one-third of From IIO

asquare shoulder,it is drawn as shown in Figs.

measured is that heretofore described as being the second position, instead of measuring onethird the radius of the are E O to ascertain and locate the lower corner of the rectangle, meastions of the several parts are determined by means of a diagram consisting of arcs and sec- I 5 toral lines, the proportionate lengths of which correspond with the known proportions of the body and are deduced from a single measurement, substantially as specified.

In testimony whereof I affiX my signature 20 in presence of two witnesses.

M. V. COLEMAN.

Witnesses:

A H 101mm, J. T. WRIGHT. 

